Peacock orchid, glory of the east, Himalayan crocus, Indian crocus and windowsill orchid.
Pleiones come in about 20 different species and are widespread from Central Nepal, eastwards to Taiwan, and from Central China, down to southeast Burma, northern Thailand and Laos. Himalayan species like these, need four seasons, and can tolerate pretty cold winters and warm wet summers, so they can be grown wherever conditions sufficiently mimic their natural habitat. In winter, while they are dormant, they need to be kept cold but just frost-free. If need be, small numbers can be kept in a fridge if your winters are usually too warm (you can un-pot them and keep them in the fridge in a paper bag for a few weeks). Within these restraints they may be grown on a windowsill, in a cooler glasshouse or cold frame and may be put outside for those months that are frost-free. They love rain and breezes when in growth. In areas with few and gentle frosts they can even be planted in the garden. But most people grow them as pot plants. In noting all this from internet sources, I kept a clay pot outside on a bench under an oak tree by accident, in our pretty hard frosts of Canterbury and wet winters, they flowered as per usual. The growing medium is important, it needs to be free draining. The choice of which is up to you. I use ⅓ bark (approximately 5-10mm), ⅓ pine duff (rooted needles) or leaf mould and ⅓ chopped sphagnum. Coarse peat, perlite and others can be used. Coarser material at the base of the pot and finer at the surface.
Just bury the bases of the pseudobulbs, and water only lightly only when the bud appears. As the flowers fade the roots really get growing, so once the roots are established, water more liberally and maintain excellent moisture while they grow. Once they begin to die off, reduce watering, until they can be left dry, parked up behind the garage or inside, whatever is easier. The choice of pot is flexible, some depth is good, for example a deeper bonsai pot, a clay or plastic pot. Porous clays allow the plant to be kept cooler as moisture evaporates from the surface. Of course these pots will dry faster so a saucer of water may ensure they don't dry too fast.
Both the pseudobulbs and their roots are annual. Repotting every year is best. They cab be unpotted at any time once dormant and repotted again anytime before growth commences. They can be stored in their pots, but paper bags are good too. Just keep and eye on them as spring comes. Generally they burst into growth in early September, so ideally have them potted up in August ready. Different varieties will resume growth at different times. Pull apart the root ball, removing the old compost and most of the dead root. Rather than remove the old roots entirely, trim them back but leave a little to help to anchor the pseudobulb in the new compost when potting. Remove shriveled bulbs. Top dressing with bark will help hold it all down and retain moisture and look good. One to three small pseudobulbs should appear at the top of the old pseudobulb in addtition one or two flowering sized bulbs.
Semi-shade is best. They like regular but weak feeds with a liquid fertiliser. Feeding should start once the leaves start to grow quickly. In this way the bulb can grow several new, strong, replacement bulbs. If you added a little Osmocoat, this will do. Peter's Orchid Special Fertiliser at 50% normal dilution. This is a Dalton's product but is only available in larger quantities. This will be available from Ortel.
I haven't had them, but watch for slugs and snails, mealy bugs, aphids, red spider mites and scale.